Every few days there is a brand new birding article on FIREFINCH. It’s a real treat when you unlock your phone and see the notification! We call these posts “Dawn Chorus” articles. Today’ post, #56, is by a guest contributor: Hamman Prinsloo. Anyone is welcome to write for the app – let me know if you’ve seen something cool or been somewhere interesting! Today on FIREFINCH we travel through the beautiful vast nothingness of Namibia. In the blazing heat of December nogal! But thanks to Hamman writing and stunning photos, we can experience it all in comfort.

Normally this content is only available to subscribers, but I thought I’d share Hamman’s great report here. It is packed with useful tips and stakeouts, and I also added some maps to the birding sites. For more such high quality material, check out FIREFINCH on the App Store or Google Play! Now, let’s go birding!

Not a reader?

No problem! You can also listen to the content of the Dawn Chorus articles, podcast-style! I had a bit of a stuffy nose when I recorded this, but here is the link. Enjoy!

FIREFINCH Trip Report: Namibia, Dec 2022

I had left my homework too late. Having just returned from a week in Kruger, I was still scrambling about on SABAP’s website to finalise birding spots and target lists the night before our departure on the annual family road trip to Namibia. When I finally did get to bed, my excitement levels were way too high to fall asleep. Birding—gotta love it!

With Rustenburg shrinking in the rear-view mirror, and a thousand kilometres to our overnight stop in Gobabis, it would be a long day. Fortunately the Kalahari Highway was smooth sailing. No birds to report – although that may be because I was catching up on sleep after burning the midnight oil!

A quick scroll through Facebook on the guesthouse’s wi-fi revealed a great prospect: a Northern Grey-headed Sparrow had been seen in Etosha’s Okaukuejo Camp. Johné’s skeptical look after studying the distribution map didn’t bolster my hopes though.

Waterberg Plateau National Park

ABOVE: Bernabé de la Bat Rest Camp walking trails. (c) FIREFINCH app

Our first destination was the spectacular Waterberg Plateau National Park. Upon arrival, the welcoming party was on duty: a flock of Violet Wood Hoopoes! Trying to keep up with the flock as they worked through the woodland was exhausting work. Not made any easier by the most irritating flies I’ve ever encountered. One of them even ended up flying into my mouth and got swallowed. Sorry not sorry. It was clear that midday was not the time to spend outdoors, and we retired to the pool.

Once the temperature subsided we explored the small trails between the bungalows and camp site, bumping into Grey-backed Camaroptera, Purple Roller, Burchell’s Starling, Black-faced Waxbill, a chattering family of Rosy-faced Lovebirds, plus Jacobin and Levaillant’s Cuckoos. Red-billed Spurfowls scurried away as a pair of Verreaux’s Eagles soared above.

A hornbill caught my eye and I quickly double-checked…BINGO! Bradfield’s Hornbill, and my first lifer for the trip! This pair put on quite a show, and even performed their characteristic whistles with their heads thrown back in tangible excitement.

A must at Waterberg is the scenic, though admittedly stiff, hike to the top of the plateau. This ascent brings you into the domain of the Rockrunner. This sneaky Namibian special can be notoriously difficult to locate, but a faint warbling got my adrenaline pumping. Bundu-bashing in this thick vegetation is not practical; instead I sat on a boulder and scanned. Although my target was distant, I managed to spot a streaky, red-thighed shape on a prominent rock across the valley. Yes!

At the crack of dawn we headed to the camp site: a rendezvous with a certain special parrot was on the agenda. Waterberg is known for being one of the best spots to find them so my fingers were crossed. While walking through the campsite, the birds slowly awakened, evident from the dawn chorus symphony that gained momentum as the sun rose above the horizon. I heard a parrot-like screeching sound from a nearby tree. Lo and behold, there they were! A family of three sleepy-looking Ruppell’s Parrots! We stood there in awe of their beauty. The powder-blue belly and bright yellow shoulders are so striking. After a few minutes they screeched off to forage for the day.

After breakfast, I couldn’t resist the temptation of trying my luck one last time in the camp site. Within minutes we found another pair of hornbills. These appeared particularly pale, and the dark eye and red bill confirmed my hopeful suspicion: Damara Red-billed Hornbills. After enjoying my third lifer (and Johné’s 8^th) the travel party was off to the next destination—Etosha.

ABOVE: Bradfield’s Hornbill is part of the ‘head-up whistlers’ clade of hornbills; vs. the ‘head-down cluckers’ such as Yellow-billed and Red-billed.

ABOVE: Damara Red-billed Hornbill is distinguished from Southern Red-billed by its dark eye and unmarked neck, but intermediate (hybrid) inviduals are not infrequent.

ABOVE: Namibia’s Rockrunner is a member of the Macrosphenidae family, along with the Cape Grassbird, Victorin’s Warbler and the crombecs!

ABOVE: A Ruppell’s Parrot starting its day in the Waterberg.

Etosha National Park

ABOVE: Eastern Etosha National Park map. (c) FIREFINCH app.

Before entering the park, a pitstop at Mokuti Lodge was a no-brainer. This stakeout has become known as reliable spot for the localised Black-faced Babbler. Apparently the babblers are also possible on Bloubok Draai in the park itself, but I’ve never seen them during my Dik-Dik missions. Unfortunately, the lodge grounds were closed for renovations, and no amount of negotiation or pleading could produce access.

Etosha!

Our first afternoon was not particularly effective on the birding front. I’m afraid if f big cats are thrown into the mix, birds take a back seat. Nonetheless, African Harrier-Hawk, Temminck’s Courser and Kori Bustard were seen around Namutoni. Big flocks of Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Larks filled the plains around Chudop. The thick-billed herero race of Sabota Lark (sometimes split as ‘Bradfield’s Lark’) was another highlight between the leopard, lion and elephant sightings we got to enjoy.

The following days were spent in a blissful haze of birding, game viewing and soaking in the stark scenery. Thornveld produced the handsome Shaft-tailed Whydah, the quirky Kalahari Scrub Robin and finally my long-time bogey bird, Barred Wren-Warbler. Exploring the plains yielded the ghostly pale local race of Red-capped Lark, as well as Ant-eating Chat, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Northern Black Korhaan and Desert Cisticola.

ABOVE: I finally managed to catch up with a Barred Wren-Warbler! In this case a beautiful breeding male with its brown chest.

Johné was determined to get the perfect shot of a Double-banded Courser, so we spent some time with them along Ngobib Loop. Suddenly two larks joined the party as well. Perched on a piece of elephant dung, the birds raised their straggly crests. “Stark’s Lark!” I exclaimed. I suspect the non-birding folks were a bit baffled at my excitement about this anaemic-looking LBJ though.

ABOVE: Stark’s Lark is highly nomadic in arid regions. At times super-abundant, but then disappears for years. Note the white underparts, virtually unmarked breast, straggly crest and curved bill.

A visit to the Andoni Plains revealed various waterbirds. While trying, unsuccessfully, to string a Ruff into a Redshank, several big shadows fell across the ground. I immediately suspected some raptor but the accompanying call suggested otherwise. As I looked up, a flock of ten Blue Cranes descended gracefully, as if parachuting. With an estimated population of 60 birds in Etosha (the only Blue Cranes outside South Africa) this flock theoretically made up 17% of the local population.

ABOVE: Parachuting Blue Cranes.

We took the Okerfontein road back towards Namutoni and had great raptor sightings. Pale Chanting Goshawks, Greater Kestrels and Lesser Kestrels were present in abundance, while he had a quick fly-by of a Red-necked Falcon back at Namutoni. We enjoyed the sunset with a herd of ellies at Klein Namutoni.

A seasonal pan close to Springbokfontein en route to Halali was a magnet for waterbirds. It remains incredible how the birds can locate such temporary water sources in this inhospitable region. A flock of Lesser Flamingos were showing off, flying graciously over the pan while Wood Sandpiper, Common Greenshank, Little Stint, Pied Avocet and Cape Teal were wading around in the shallows. We also managed to pick up five Chestnut-banded Plovers, with Etosha being one of the few inland localities for this species.

ABOVE: A Chestnut-banded Plover explores the salty margins. This appears to be a male with a hint of black on the forehead and chest-band.

All birding intentions on our first early morning drive from Halali got highjacked by a stunning male lion on territorial patrol and a Bat-eared Fox digging after termites. Just outside Halali a Bronze-winged Courser was whiling away the daylight hours in the shade of a mopani. We headed in the direction of Rietfontein, and encountered flocks of hundreds of Grey-backed Sparrow-Larks on the Salvadori Plains.

ABOVE: Male Grey-backed Sparrow-Lark.

The afternoon was reserved for birding in Halali Camp, which is arguably the best birding spot in the park for classic Namibian targets. First up was Damara Red-billed Hornbill. This is not always the easiest ID to make as Halali falls in a hybridization zone with the widespread Southern Red-billed Hornbill. We quickly managed to find the resident family of Bare-cheeked Babblers sitting in the shade of a table outside one of the rondavels. They are incredibly accommodating and approached too close for my lens’ minimum focal distance.

While on my stomach next to a babbler, I heard a deep hooting not too far off: a male African Cuckoo! At least we don’t have to worry about bill colouration or tail barring—he told us who he was! A family of Violet Wood Hoopoes loudly announced their arrival in the trees in front of the restaurant; a small raptor eyeing the cabal turned out to be stunning Shikra. A quick break in the swimming pool to recover from the Namibian heat, and we headed out on our afternoon drive. Rietfontein waterhole revealed a male Greater Painted Snipe and enjoying interactions between a Cape Fox and her sub-adult pups. We headed back to Halali just in time to catch the resident Black Rhino for sundowners while an African Wild Cat was in hot pursuit of the Double-banded Sandgrouse coming in for a drink after sunset.

ABOVE: African Cuckoo.

ABOVE: Violet Wood Hoopoes appear darker and less glossy than the overlapping Green Wood Hoopoe. In fact, much of their body plumage looks matt black in the field.

ABOVE: Shrikes are predominantly lizard-eaters.

The one Halali target that was conspicuous in its absence was Carp’s Tit. This little black phantom was really starting to work on my nerves. Since I started birding, we’ve been to Halali on three occasions before and I simply couldn’t find one. I shared my frustrations with Jo Balmer, who suggested that we search in a different spot in the camp. Of course, within five seconds of arrival at Jo’s magic spot, a Carp’s Tit appeared out of nowhere. Success at long last! I was on a high like no other!

ABOVE: Carp’s Tit – finally!

Our final destination in Etosha was Okakeujo Camp. We opted to drive via Gemsbokvlakte with Burchell’s Courser in mind. On previous occasions, I’ve seen multiple birds on the plain around the waterhole. The area also delivered Caspian Plovers for me in 2019. Luck was not on our side this year, but a pair of decidedly pale Pink-billed Larks was a great consolation prize.

That Facebook report was still on my mind, and now that we were at Okakeugjo, Mission Northern Grey-headed Sparrow was on! While the rest of the family relaxed in the pool, Johné and myself voluntarily tendered for heatstroke. We meticulously verified EVERY. SINGLE. GREY. HEADED. SPARROW. We did get excited a few times just to confirm yet another odd looking Southern individual. Something strange happens when you start looking so intensely. You start noticing minute individual differences, until every sparrow starts looking odd.

An Ashy Tit and Brubru provided some distraction whilst searching for a needle in a haystack, while massive swarms of Red-billed Queleas were our constant companions. We had to call it a day after two hours of scanning and met up with the family to go and enjoy some Lions at Nebrowni Waterhole. Our sparrow quest was a hot topic for discussion in the car. Questions like “so there’s only one of them here?” and statements like “nothing actually keeps it inside the camp grounds” did not lift my spirits. The Lion cubs and Black Rhinos helped somewhat.

The next morning the mission continued. Today we could not even find a Southern Grey-headed Sparrow! This was starting to feel personal. A pair of Pririt Batises and Shaft-tailed Whydahs kept us motivated and another African Cuckoo provided great photo opportunities. Time was running out: the car was packed and our companions were ready to hit the road. One last patrol still yielded nothing, and we headed to the car, beaten. But hold on, what’s this chirping above the car?

And there it was—Northern Grey-headed Sparrow! You might wonder how we confirmed so quickly that is was the Northern? Well, if you’ve looked at the amount of Southerns we did, then you’ll just know it when you see it. The Northern appears plumper with a heavy bill and a clear white throat framed with a darker border. A sigh of relief, and we put the car in gear. Coastwards.

ABOVE: Western Etosha map. (c) FIREFINCH app.

Our sparrow quest was a hot topic for discussion in the car. Questions like “so there’s only one of them here?” and statements like “nothing actually keeps it inside the camp grounds” did not lift my spirits. The Lion cubs and Black Rhinos helped somewhat.

ABOVE: Bird of the trip: Northern Grey-headed Sparrow. Not so much because of its beauty. But we sure put in the effort to find this guy!

Swakopmund, Walvis Bay & Henties

ABOVE: Swakopmund area map. (c) FIREFINCH app.

You can’t drive through Uis without looking for Benguela Long-billed Lark. We were unsuccessful this time around, but saw large flocks of Lark-like Buntings. We always stay at my grandfather’s in Hentiesbaai and most of the birding spots are easily accessible from here. An Elegant Tern was reported from Mile 4 Salt Works a few days earlier and that was the perfect excuse to tag along for Christmas shopping in Swakop. We found the tern roost but could not spot an orange bill between the Sandwich and Swifties. Damara Terns gave fly-by visuals.

Birding friends of ours, Viandre and Bianca, also on tour through Namibia, stayed in Henties during the same period and we joined up for a few excursions. First up was a quick detour to my favourite spot for Gray’s Lark just north of the Omururu river. We barely started our search when Viandre spotted a small flock, and we ended up spending an hour with these running cotton balls.

Christmas Day was not dedicated to birds, but after trifle we took a leisurely drive along the coast south Jakkalsputz. This is prime territory for Tractrac Chat. My Christmas present was a mammal lifer in the form of a Littledale’s Whistling Rat!

ABOVE: Gray’s Lark demonstrating the close match between its feathers and the sand. It has been suggested that lark feathers’ microstructure allows the feathers to be coated in dust for perfect camouflage.

ABOVE: Tractrac Chat thrives on arid plains where few other birds can survive. An exception being Gray’s Lark!

ABOVE: Walvis Bay birding sites map. (c) FIREFINCH app.

We had another appointment with the Delports to head to Spitzkoppe in search of the elusive Herero Chat. A dead phone battery caused a late start and I was worried that this might compromise our chances of finding the chats. Instead we opted to hit Rooibank and Walvis instead.

This was a good move. A bit later than anticipated, but we arrived at Rooibank around 07:30 and the red Kuiseb riverbed still had a blanket of clouds covering it from the sun. Perfect—the larks will still be out. And sure enough, the faint trilling song of a displaying Dune Lark greeted us.

Back in Walvis, working the lagoon and salt pans delivered Hartlaub’s Gull, Ruddy Turnstone, South African Shelduck, Eurasian Whimbrel, Kelp Gull, Great White Pelican, Sanderling, Curlew Sandpiper, Bar-tailed Godwit, Lesser and Greater Flamingo, Caspian Tern, Common Ringed and Chestnut-banded Plovers and a huge flock of Common Terns. Unfortunately, the Red Knots, Red-necked Phalaropes, Eurasian Curlew and Terek Sandpiper eluded us. We were unable to drive towards Pelican Point with the Duster and had to settle without Black Tern.

Spitzkoppe was on the agenda for the 28^th. This time the Delport’s alarm did go off and we arrived at this incomparable inselberg at the crack of dawn. Johné was on the brink of her 500 milestone with only six to go. We headed towards the area optimistically signposted “Herero Chat viewing area”.

ABOVE: Dune Lark is Namibia’s only true endemic. The other specials marginally occur in southern Angola or western South Africa.

Searching the rocky jumbles, we spotted Pale-winged Starling, White-throated Canary and then…Herero Chat. Distant but satisfying views. While searching hard for the White-tailed Shrikes, we found Dusky Sunbird, Monteiro’s Hornbill, Rosy-faced Lovebird and Alpine and Bradfield’s Swift. A white-browed Southern Fiscal looked strikingly different from the ones we are used to in Gauteng. With Johné now on 499, it was only a matter of time before celebrations were in order. Number 500? A pair of beautiful Layard’s Warblers. Viandre and Bianca finally managed to locate a few White-tailed Shrikes while myself and Johné were photographing Cape Buntings. They screamed to get our attention and luckily after a little more climbing, everyone could tick this one off as well. What a morning!

ABOVE: Herero Chat – the nemesis of many a twitcher!

ABOVE: A stunningly lit Bradfield’s Swift arcs above Spitzkoppe.

ABOVE: In tree-less environments, Monteiro’s Hornbill often nests in cracks and crevices in cliffs.

Later this afternoon we wanted to spend some time with the Damara Terns outside Henties. We were fortunate enough to spot a female incubating. Being a sensitive and endangered species, I kept my distance and lied down flat on my stomach some distance away. My 61 Megapixels allowed a close crop of this special and intimate scene without disturbing the nesting and incubation.

After a very, very successful trip, we had to give one final push. Mission Black Tern. The Delports managed to find one a few days ago on one of their solo expeditions and gave us a few pointers. Our last day was supposed to be your typical “tourist” Swakopmund day, but my skilled negotiation skills added Pelican Point to the itinerary.

We found a massive tern roost and started scanning. Easily 1,500 birds. Maybe more. And all Common Terns. I still remember Viandre’s words. A slightly smaller tern. Slightly darker. Dark ear patch. We scanned and scanned. Three cars from Pelican Point’s side drove towards us at full speed, flushing up the whole tern roost. Back to square one. Eventually the terns resettled, but my optimism was waning. “Hold on”. Those magic words that bring in an instant injection of hope. Johné had spotted a smaller, darker bird. Black Tern! We knew the terns would have flushed the moment we opened the car door, so decided to inch closer with the Prado. However, after getting our shots, we came to the horrible realisation that the vehicle was stuck! A deep player of sludge was disguised by a thin covering of sand and our slow approach made us completely unaware of the trouble we were in. Fortunately a Portuguese family passing by stopped and helped us push the car out. That was close!

We concluded our trip with a dinner at Blue Grass in Swakopmund. As always, Namibia provided unparalleled birding in incredible surroundings. I can hardly wait for next year’s Christmas road trip!

ABOVE: Namibia’s coast is the global stronghold for breeding Damara Terns.

ABOVE: In a direct comparison, Black Tern (in the foreground) is markedly smaller than Comon. Also note that small but diagnostic dark tabs on the breast-sides.

Hamman Prinsloo, a medical student at the University of Pretoria, in an avid birder, wildlife photographer and overall nature fanatic. He spends most of his time in search of either birds of leopards.